(Euplectes Orix and E. Franciscanus)

Common Names: Red Bishop, Grenadier Weaver, Grenadier Bishop, Orange Bishop, Orange Bishop Weaver

Description: Outside of breeding season, the males sport plumage is brown overall with some dark streaks and a cream-colored belly. During breeding or nuptial season, the male has a black beak, black plumage around the eyes, and brown wings. The rest of the plumage is a brilliant red to orange in color. The females have the same plumage year-round, which resembles that of the off-season males.

Size: The average size for this species is 5 inches (12.5cm).

Origin: This species originates from Africa.

Diet: Provide fresh clean water at all times and make sure the seed is replaced often. Orage Weavers have a very high metabolism and will feed throughout the day to keep up. They are excellent at husking the seeds and making it look like their food dish is full. Orange Weavers will eat insects. Live or freeze dried mealworms can be offered.

General Care: Orange Weavers do best when the temperature is kepts at least 70 degrees year round.

Housing: This species can be housed in breeding cages but they will thrive in a large planted aviary with plenty of room to fly, sing and socialize. The best temperature to maintain is around 75 degrees as Spice finches do not do well in cold temperatures.

Compatibility: Because of the male's aggressiveness, it requires a lot of space for the male and his harem.

(Serinus Canarius Domesticus)

Description: There are many different types of Domestic Canaries which vary in description amoung species mutation. What I will describe here is the most common domesticated "type" Canary, the Border Canary. They are bred in a variety of colors including solid yellow, white, blue and cinnamon. Solid yellow or white colored Canaries are normaly refered to as "Clears" while solid green, cinnamon or blues are called "Selfs". Pied Canaries are stated to be "Variegated". Border type Canaries are hardy birds with a well rounded head and big, alert eyes. They do resemble a Norwich Canary but are smaller. Border Fancys are most often confused with the Gloster Canary but can be differentciated by the song. Chopper notes can be heard by the Border while the Gloster sings with more of a Roller-Chopper mix.

Size: The Border Canary is somewhat larger than the roller breeds but smaller than a Norwhich. Being very close to resembling the Gloster Canary this "type" bred bird is larger averaging about 5.5 inches (14cm).

Origin: The original Canary was discovered in the Canary Islands which is off the coast of South Africa around the late 1470's. Canaries have been considered documented pets since the year 1610. By 1790 many of the current Canary breeds were already established. Now more than 28 various types of Canaries have been bred. The newest bred Canaries being the Red-Factor, Stafford and Wee-Gem Border Canaries.The Border Canary itself originated from the "common" chopper Canary selectively bred in the British Isles around the 1700's, it became established and was bred further more on the border of England and Scotland. In 1889 a gathering at the Border town of Langholm was held and the name Border Canary and it's standards were put into effect.

Diet: A good Canary diet must include mixed seeds such as canary seed, rape seed, millet, hemp, niger and teazel. Fresh water, cuttlebone and grit/oyster shell should also be supplied at all times. Lettuce, Spinach, Chickweed, Spray Millet, Eggfood, Brocolli tops and Carrot tops can also be offered on a regular basis. Red Factors Canaries must be color fed to maintain red plumage. If they are not color fed they will turn a orange-yellow color. We offer our Red factors a product called Pastochemi R which is added to soft food such as Petamine. They really seem to love this stuff. There are also other products you can use to color feed such as Xantofil, Roxanthin, Canthraxin, Bogena Red or Orlux eggfood. Some color agents are added to the drinking water while others are mixed in with soft food.

General Care: Do not forget to trim your Canary's nails on occasion and provide bath water daily.

Compatibility: This bird is a good specimen for a mixed aviary provided there is plently of room and other birds out number the Canaries. During the breeding season or when you have Canary males housed together they will become agressive towards each other in the presence of females.

Housing: These birds do best in a large planted aviary with mixed species. If you are wanting them to breed you can seperate them by pairs into breeding cages. Canaries can tolerate low temperatures of 50 degrees if natualy aclimatized to it over a period of time but if they are suddenly removed for warmer temps and placed into cold climate they can become ill. Do not house them in round cages. We breed our Canaries in tier-style breeding cages. They seem to enjoy the privacy of solid wall divided breeder cages but we have bred them with wire divided breeding cages with the same success. All our young weaned Canries are placed in a large flight cage to color up and exercise untill paired up the following year. Our pairs are also placed in large flights by sex during summer to rest from breeding and molt.

Song: As mentioned above there were originaly two types of songs, the "Roller" version and the "Chopper" version. Roller Canary males singing a soft rolling song with their mouth closed or just barely open while Chopper Canary males sing a loud, vibrant chopping song with thier beak wide open. These different singing birds were bred together to create birds such as Glosters and American Singers which can sing both "Roller" and "Chopper" notes. Clcik on the links below to hear different songs

Various species in the family Cactuidae. Goffin's (Cacatua goffini) Sulphur-Crested (Cacatua galerita) Umbrella (Cacatua alba)

Description: Nearly all the cockatoo species are mostly white or black in color. A small number of species have gray or pink as their base color with patches of other colors along the body.

Size: Anywhere from 12 to 26 inches (30 to 36 cm) (tail included) depending on the species.

Origin: Australia, Indonesia, the Phillipines

Diet: Cockatoos do best with a varied diet that combines pelleted food with fresh fruits and vegetables, a small amount of seed, and occasional “people food” treats. Their diet should also be particularly rich in calcium. Cockatoos requires more calcium than most other birds.

General Care: Becaue of their intelligence and loving qualities, Cockatoos have a very high need for interaction, attention, and affection. The are found in higher temperature environments but are fine in room temperature homes.

Compatibility: They are best as single or in pairs. They are very loud. They may or may not develop a friendship with other pets. Cocktoos can be very jealous of babies and small children so never leave the two unattended.

Housing: The larger the enclosure the better. Ideally the size of the cage should be at least 3 wingspans of the bird.

(Melopsittacus undulatus budgerigar)

Description: Budgies come in a variety of colors.

Size: Approximately 7 to 7 1/2 inches.

Origin: Australia

Diet: Budgies like seeds, safe fruits and vegetable, and millet. Change their water daily.

General Care: Be sure your budgie has cuttle bone to suppliment its calcium needs.

Compatibility: Budgies are social birds. They are best in pairs. Be sure the cage has plenty of toys and a swing to keep them occupied. They need social interaction daily.

Housing: The standard minimum cage size recommended by professionals is 12- by 18- by 18-inches for a single bird. This cage size is fine if your budgie is outside of the cage most of the time. But if you have a cage-confined budgie a larger cage is necessary. For two budgies, 39- by 20- by 32-inches is a recommended size. The bars of the cage should be horizontal and spaced no more than 1/2-inch apart. Any wider and the budgie could get stuck trying to escape.

(Nymphicus Hollandicus)

Originally from Australia, has become one of the most popular companion birds in America today. Although they are not considered great talkers, they have a variety of sounds and calls which are quite appealing. They do seem to enjoy whistling even complicated tunes. Don't teach them to whistle unless you are prepared to listen to it frequently!

CAGE: A cockatiel's cage should be as large as your budget allows. A cockatiel should have at least enough room to open his wings and flap without bumping into anything in the cage. Cockatiels can be kept two in a cage, but allow extra room for each bird.

Cockatiels MUST have toys or they will literally go crazy with boredom. Include several in the cage and rotate them every few weeks. Some birds like bright colors while some are fearful of them. Some birds like beads, bells, and wood while others may not. Each bird is an individual and will have different preferences in toys. We have a large selection of toys designed for all types of birds. A word of caution when selecting a mirror as a toy: some trainers believe that mirrors will prevent birds from bonding with their owners. They believe the bird will bond instead to the "bird in the mirror".

You may also wish to use a cage cover to protect your bird from drafts and to provide a feeling of safety for your bird as it sleeps. A cover may also be used as a training tool. When your bird is unusually loud or disobedient, remove it from it's "flock" by covering the cage. When he quiets down, reward him by removing the cover.

A cockatiel should be part of the family. Place your bird in an area where it will be part of the family's daily activity such as a family room or breakfast nook. Although cockatiels benefit from natural sunlight, NEVER place your bird in front of an open window. They are too drafty. A bird in front of a closed window can also overheat from the sun. Test for drafts from ceiling fans before leaving a cage for any extended length of time. Birds can tolerate low temperatures, but never a draft.

• NEVER place your bird in a room where others will smoke. They have very sensitive lungs and are prone to respiratory infections if subjects to the stress of a smoky room.
• NEVER place your bird in the kitchen. Non-stick cookware, such as Teflon®, when overheated, releases a gas which is TOXIC to all birds. Smoke from burning food will also leave your birds's respiratory system vulnerable to infections.
• NEVER leave your bird in a room where fabric freshener has been used. Remove your bird from the room and return him only when the product has dried.
• NEVER leave your bird in a room where any aerosol product is being used. This includes perfumes, hair spray, room deodorizers, spray paint, and strong cleaners.
• NEVER place your bird's cage close to an item he can chew. Blinds, curtains, window facings and picture frames have all fallen victim to bored birds at one time or another. Try and observe your bird when he thinks he is alone - see what he can grab when he reaches out with his foot.

MAINTIENCE: We recommend cleaning the bottom of the cage on a daily basis. Using litters such as corm cob or crushed walnut shells make this task easier. Remove all soft food after a couple of hours. Washing the food and water cups daily will prevent unwanted bacterial growth. Tip: Place water cups above perches to prevent accidental contamination.
Because birds may pick at the bars of their cage, we recommend scrubbing them once a week. Use a brush to remove all droppings from the bars and disinfect with a mild bleach solution (1 part bleach to 10 parts water). Also scrub the perches weekly. All the perches to dry completely before returning them to the cage. We recommend two sets of perches for this purpose.

DIET: Most cockatiels eat a seed diet. These diets should be supplemented by beans, vegetables, fruits, and breads. Because of recent nutritional studies on cockatiels, recommendations have drastically changed. Diet recommendations now suggest that half the diet consist of pellets and the other half consist of things such as bird bread, bean mix, healthy "people food" (fruits and vegetables) and not more than 10% seed. Offer different fruits and vegetables. At first a bird may be fearful of the color or size of a food, but in time he will become accustomed to its presence and began nibbling out of curiosity. Breads are also a good food source. Wheat bread and baked corn bread us relished by many birds. One rule of thumb when feeding your bird "people food"; if it's good for people, it's good for birds! For example, ice cream is good only in limited quantities This is also true for your bird. A few licks are okay, but since birds are lactose intolerant, too much could cause diarrhea. Birds can have cultured dairy products like yogurt and cheese. These products are actually a good source of protein. Avoid greasy, salty foods like french fries and potato chips. They are not good for you or your bird! The benefits to be gained from this diet include better overall health, improved resistance to infection, and stronger, lovelier feathers. Although thought of as healthy for people, never feed iceberg lettuce. It is watery and offers no nutritional value. Talk to us about converting a "Seed Junkie" over to a pellet diet. It requires patience, but it can be accomplished. Even through a pellet diet is complete, we still recommend a vitamin supplement for your bird's water. Make sure you see your bird drink from his cup. Some birds may not like the taste of a particular vitamin in his water, so go easy - don't over do it. This supplement will help balance out any vitamin deficiencies in the diet. Also include a mineral bock or cuttlebone in your bird's cage. Not only to they provide minerals like calcium, but they also were away the bird's beak to prevent overgrowth.
Tip: Chocolate and avocado are toxic to all birds!

GROOMING: Cockatiels enjoy a bath. We recommend misting your bird or using a bird bath with 1/4" of water. Remember to remove the water quickly at the end of bath time to prevent the bird from drinking the bath water. Cockatiels have very muscular shoulders and a capacity for strong flight. Because of this, have their wings clipped on a regular basis. VIP customers enjoy free nail and wing clips as often as necessary. Ask any member of our staff for more information on our VIP club! Toenails should be trimmed on an as needed basis. Look at the nail when the bird is a rest. If the nail leans to one side, it needs to be trimmed. If you do not feel comfortable with this task, we at BayouABird will do it for you or contact your avian vet. There is another alternative to frequent trimming - concrete perches. The rough quality of the concrete will actually file the times of the mail as the bird grips the perch.

ADJUSTING TO A NEW HOME: There are a few things you can do to help your new cockatiel adjust to it's new home:

• Feed it the same diet it was eating previously
• Have a millet spray present
• Remove all toys and introduce them slowly
• Use plain white colored food dishes (Bright colors may frighten some birds)
• Hang dishes near perches (Some birds are insecure on the cage bottom)
• Don't add any vitamin supplement to their food or water (unless it was done by the previous owner) until the bird is eating vigorously
• We recommend on electrolyte replacement like Ornalyte to help with stressed birds
• Keep the cage out of high traffic areas. (Not off by himself, just in a quiet area)
• Keep three sides of his cage covered to help him feel secure

(Forpus Coelestis)

Common Names: Pacific Parrotlet, Celestial Parrotlet, Lucida Parrotlet, Pocket Parrot

Description: In the normal form the males and hens both have a bright apple green face and cheeks. The back is a darker green while the belly is a lighter shade of green. Males have cobalt blue streaks which extend from behind the eye following around the cheeks, on the wing converts and on the rump. Hens may show slight blue eye streaks but lackthe bright blue on the rump and wing convets.

Size: This is one of the smallest parrot species in the world. The average size for this species is 5 1/2 inches (14cm).

Origin: Pacific Parrotlets originate from western Ecuador and northern Peru.

Diet: A good Parrotlet diet consist of a mixture of canary seeds and millets along with safflower and some sunflower seeds. Sprouted seeds, kale, boiled egg, spray millet, brocolli, grated carrot, corn, chopped apple, grapes, mango can also be offered and are relished by most. They are not picky eaters and seem to be willing to try new foods given to them.

General Care: Pets should be supervised when out of the cage as they can easily be stepped on or get into other trouble if they have free range of the home.

Compatibility: Pacific Parrotlets are best kept as single pets or one pair per cage/aviary. Although they are small it is not wise to mix them with Finches, Canaries or other species. These little hookbills can be quite agressive towards other species of birds. They are also not very suitable for colony breeding as males get agressive towards others during the breeding season.

Housing: Parrotlets are not big but are very active birds so the more space you can offer them the better. I would say the min. cage space for a pair would be 24 x 16 x 16. They do best in temps between 60-85 degrees.

Song: This species doesn't sing but they can learn to talk. They are not noisy and do not squawk or scream like Lovebirds, Conures or other hookbills. Parrotlets have more of a finch like chirping-chatter which sounds somewhat like a minature Red Rump Parakeet. Their small size, quiet disposition and sweet personality makes them one of the most popular pet birds in aviculture currently.

(Lonchura Domestica)

Common Names: Society Finch, Bengalese Finch

Description: In the normal form (Chocolate Self) Society Finches very much resemble Sharp-tailed Munias. They have an upper mandible which is black and a lower mandible which is normaly a lighter tint or grey-black. The back and tail are chocolate brown with light highlights throughout. The face mask is normaly solid chocolate brown while the neck has scallops and highlights which proceed down the chest. The belly is a mottled shade of white, brown, and black. Both sexes look alike but only the male sings.

Size: These finches range from 4-5 inches (10-13cm). Some of the German and European breeds can be larger.

Origin: Society Finches are strickly a domesticated breed and can not be found in the wild. It is believed they decend from Sharp-tailed or White-backed Mannikins. They were first bred in China and were introduced to Japan about 260 years ago then imported into Europe. Today Society Finches are widley spread throughout the U.S and many other countries.

Diet: A good Society Finch diet must include a mixture of millets, cereal seeds and canary grass seeds. Fresh water, cuttlebone and grit should be supplied at all times. Lettuce, Spinach, Chickweed, Spray Millet, Eggfood, Brocolli tops and Carrot tops can also be offered on a regular basis. Livefood is not nessacary for the specie.

General Care: These birds require routine nail trimming. Provide bath water daily.

Compatibility: As the name insist Society (Bengalese) Finches are very social by nature and will get along together or with other bird species. Just be careful not to put them with other species that might be agressive towards them.

Housing: Many Societies are house in individual breeding cages much like Canaries. However, they will thrive in a large planted aviary with plenty of room to fly, sing and socialize. The best temperature to maintain is around 75 degrees as Societies do not do well in cold temperatures. If your Socities are for breeding or fostering purposes you will need to house them in individual breeding cages after they have been sexed. Same sex Socities can be paired in breeding cages and conditioned so that they will foster other exotic finch eggs. A lot of people use two males together in the same cage. This way there are no other eggs laid as in the case of two hens placed together. I prefer male-female pairs so they can raise their own young and if need be I can use them as foster parents.

Song: The male Society Finch has a boisterously loud song. He will puff out his feathers and stand tall while he quickly hops from side to side singing. They will sing to hens and other males. The hens do not sing but do make clicking or warning sounds.

(Neophema Bourkii)

Common Names: Bourke Parakeet, Bourke Grass Keet

Description: In the normal form the head and back are a scaled grey with the chest and abdomen being a pink shade. The wings and tail are eched in blue. Males will have a blue crown on the forhead while hens and juveniles have a full grey head.

Size: The average size for this species is 71/2 inches (19cm).

Origin: Though endangered in their homeland they are popular aviculturally and originate from Southwestern and Central Australia.

Diet: The diet for the Bourke should include a mixture of canary seeds and millets along with safflower and some sunflower seeds. Sprouted seeds, kale, boiled egg, spray millet, brocolli, grated carrot, corn and chopped apple can also be offered. We have offered other fruits and veggies but the above seem to be the ones they normaly chose to eat.

General Care: This species is relativly hardy as long as not exposed to ongoing damp conditions.

Compatibility: Bourkes are very peaceful and can be kept in an aviary with other peaceful species such as Splendids, Socities and other peaceful finches.

Housing: This species is not very flighty being most active at dawn and dusk. They are social and do enjoy the company of other birds or people. Young handfed birds make excellent pets and can be kept in med. size parrot cages as long as they have ample time out of the cage. Parent raised birds will enjoy a mixed aviary or the company of it's own species. I would suggest a min. cage space of 30 x 18 for a pair although we breed our Bourkes in a same species aviary with several pairs and nest boxes hung throughout. They do best in temps between 60-85 degrees.

Song: This species has no true song and are pretty quiet but do make the occasional melodious chirps and whistles. They are not known for talking.

(Lonchura Punctulata)

Common Names: Spice Finch, Nutmeg Finch

Description: Adult Spice Finches have a nutmeg brown head, back and tail with beautiful scaling on the chest & underbelly. The eyes are a dark brown while the beak and legs are a dark gray. Both sexes look identical and can only be sexed by the male's courtship song. This is one of the hardest species for me to visually sex as the male's song is very soft.

Size: The average size for this species is 5 inches (12.5cm).

Origin: This mannikin originates from Asia, India, Java and parts of the Philippines.

Diet: A good diet for Spice Finches includes cereal seed, paddy rice, mixed millets and green foods. Fresh water, cuttlebone and grit should be supplied at all times. Lettuce, Spinach, Chickweed, Spray Millet, Eggfood, Broccoli tops and Carrot tops can also be offered on a regular basis. Livefood is not necessary for the species.

General Care: These birds require routine nail trimming. Provide bath water daily.

Compatibility: Spice Finches are social by nature and will get along together or with other bird species. Just be careful not to put them with other species that might be agressive towards them.

Housing: This species can be housed in breeding cages but they will thrive in a large planted aviary with plenty of room to fly, sing and socialize. The best temperature to maintain is around 75 degrees as Spice finches do not do well in cold temperatures.

Song: If not paying close attention you can miss the male's song as it is very quiet and barely noticeable. He will stand upright on the perch while stretching his neck to sing. This species does not sing as often or near as loud as a Society Finch. The hens do not sing but do make clicking or warning sounds.

(Uraeginthus Cyanocephala)

Common Names: Blue Capped Cordon Bleu, Cordon Bleu, Blue Headed Waxbill

Description: The Blue-Capped Cordon Bleu are very striking African birds. The male's head, body and tail are deep sky blue in color with the wings, underbelly and back being fawn/beige. Females lack the sky blue coloring covering the whole head instead, the top of the hen's head is the same color as the wings. The face, breast and tail of the female species are sky blue like the male but appear much duller. Young males resemble hens

Size: These small African waxbills range from 4-5 inches (10-12.5cm).

Origin: Blue-Capped, Red-Cheeked and the common Cordon Bleus all originate from Africa.

Diet: A good Cordon Bleu diet must include a small seed mix such as Finch which includes a mixture of millets and seeding grasses. This waxbill is highly insectivorous and will require live food. Ant eggs, small mealworms, waxworms and fruit fly larva can be mixed in with soft food and offered daily. Fresh water, cuttlebone and grit should also be supplied at all times. Lettuce, Spinach, Chickweed, Spray Millet, Eggfood, Brocolli tops and Carrot tops can also be offered on a regular basis.

General Care: Do not forget to trim your Cordon Bleu's nails on occasion and provide bath water daily.

Compatibility: This bird is a good specimen for a mixed aviary provided there is plently of room and other birds out number the Cordon Bleus. During the breeding season or when you have Cordon Blue males housed together they will become agressive towards the same species in the presence of females.

Housing: These birds do best in a large planted aviary with mixed species. If you are wanting them to breed you can try seperating them by pairs into large flights. Do not confine them to small breeding cages or they will become bored and feather plucking/aggression will become a problem. Some heat will be required durring winter months so these birds are best suited for large indoor aviaries.

Song: Blue-Capped Cordon Blues have a wonderful melodious call. Both sexes of these birds will call and dance. The males song or call is slighty different then the hens but unlike most bird species both sexes will sing! Click the button below to hear the song.

Breeding: In the usual courtship display you will see the male carry a blade of grass or nesting material in his mouth and begin to dance on the perch. He will bounce from perch to perch if possible with the hen following him and responding by singing. Cordon Bleus lay around 4-6 eggs which are incubabted for about 12-14 days. While they can't be considered easy to breed they will breed in captivity providing they are supplied with large planted flights with nests and care is taken with thier diet. My Blue-Capped Coron Bleus prefer to nest in round grass huts with a small hole in the upper center. I must say while my pairs have laid eggs and incubated well they seem to stop feeding or toss the babies for no apparant reason. When this happens I try to relocate the baby Bleus with Society foster parents. This works fairly well in most cases.

(Psittacula Manillensis)

Common Names: Indian Ring Neck Parakeet, Indian Ringneck Parrot, IRN

Description: In the normal form Indian Ringnecks are mostly apple green with a pale yellow-green under belly. A slight black line from cere to eye can be seen on mature birds. Males at 2-3 years of age will also form a black ring under the chin which extends across the lower cheek area on both sides. A pink collar shows on the lower nape of the neck of males as well as a blue suffusion on the head and slightly below the ring. Hens show a slight light green ringing but it lacks the blue, pink and black color of the males. They have a very long tail which is about 8 inches in length by itself. Indian Ringnecks can be distinished from African Ringnecks by size and beak color. Indian Ringnecks are larger with red beaks while African ringnecks have darker plum-black colored beaks. All other coloring is the same.

Size: The average size for this species is 16in (40cm).

Origin: This species is abundantly found accross northern Africa, India, Burma, Pakistan, Nepal and Sri Lanka.

Sexing: Sexing young birds can prove difficult unless DNA sexed as all young birds resemble hens. Ringneck Parakeets can not be visualy sexed until they are 2-3 years of age at which time the male will molt into adult plumage and get his colorful ring. Some mutations such as Albino can only be DNA sexed as males of this color mutation do not ever get a ring since they are void of all color pigment. Hens show a slight ringing which is a lighter color version of there body color but lack any blue, pink or black ring color like the males.

Mutations/Sub-species: There are many Indian Ringneck mutations but the most common here in the USA are Cinnamon, Lutino, Blue, Turquoise, Grey and Albino. Pied is one of the newest mutations being bred here in the USA and we are just starting with this mutation.

Diet: A good Ringneck Parakeet diet should include a mixture of canary seeds and millets along with safflower, sunflower seeds and dried red peppers. They also enjoy fresh fruits & veggies such as brocolii, swash, sweet potato, corn, apples, oranges, cucumbers, peaches and mango. Sprouted seeds, kale, boiled egg can also be offered. All our hookbills also recieve Roudybush pellets in addition to their seed and fresh food diet.

General Care: These birds love to dunk their food in the water dish so be sure to give them frequent water changes to prevent diease.

Compatibility: It is best to keep mature males seperated from each other during the breeding season as they can become aggressive exspecialy in the presence of hens. It is not wise to house this spieces with other species either.

Housing: They are best housed one pair per flight in which pairs can not see each other. The reason for this is Ringnecks do not form very strong pair bonds and are known for flirting and distracting mates of other pairs. These birds if acclimated properly can withstand colder climates but we do not subject ours to temps below 50 degrees. If you do not supply heat for them be sure to give them frost free housing during winter so they do not get frostbite. Handfed pets can be kept in med. size parrot cages as long as they are allowed time out of the cage each day. Parent raised birds will do much better in a large flight or aviary then a cage as they can be active flyers.

Song: This species has no song just vocal squawks and whistles though not as shrill as Conures. They are however capable of talking and whistling tunes.

Breeding: The regular breeding season for Ringneck Parakeets is October-Febuary. They normaly do not breed until 2-3 years of age but established pairs can make reliable breeders producing 2 or more clutches a season if babies are pulled for handfeeding. This species prefers deep nestboxes. We use 18 deep x12wide nestboxes for our pairs. The hen normaly lays 2-6 eggs in which she incubates for 24 days. The male will accompany her at times inside the box but spends most his time outside the nestbox feeding the hen frequently. After the babies hatch they remain in the nest until 35-45 days old. They are normaly weaned by 56 days of age. All juveniles resemble hens but males will get there ring at about 2-3 years of age except for the albino and most pied mutations.

(Amazona viridigenalis Mexico)

Common Names: Mexican Red-headed Amazon. Also known as the Green-cheeked Amazon.

Description: Mexican Red-headed amazons are small, stocky green amazons with red crown, with blue cap behind. The cheeks are green and the beak is pale and they have white eye-rings. Coverts on nape and mantle are black tipped. Prominent red splashes are found on the carpus (shoulder) of males and is smaller to absent in females. Primary and secondary flight feathers are blue are primarily green.

Origin: Endemic to Mexico inhabiting wooded hills and mountains of east-central coastal areas south of Texas. Inhabit a variety of forests including pine forest, palm groves and upland mountain evergreen forests, broadleaf forests as high as 200m. They nest in tree cavities.

Diet: They eat Pine seeds, berries, pods, fruits, acorns and buds. Occasionally cause crop destruction, especially corn crops.

Size: Length is 11 to 13 inches. Weight is 300-450 grams. Males are generally larger than females and have larger heads and beaks. Eyes of juveniles are brown while eyes of adults are orange-yellow. Juveniles have a narrow red crown that enlarges with maturity.

Lifespan: Mexican Red-headed amazons can probably live up to 50 years or more. Little is known about their life span in captivity. Breeding age is approximately 3-5 years.

Personality: Mexican Red-headed amazons are intelligent, inquisitive birds with excellent speaking ability. Mature birds, especially males become aggressive. Due to their relative rarity in captivity, they are unlikely to be available for pets. They are active by nature and have a tendency toward obesity if closely confined.

Activities: Mexican Red-headed amazons should always be provided with toys, blocks of wood or branches that they can chew. In order to ensure safety companion amazons should not be allowed unsupervised freedom in the home as they often encounter toxins or dangerous items. Young amazons should be socialized to many people and exposed to a variety of situations such as new cages, toys, visits to the veterinarian, handling by friends, wing and nail clips, etc. to avoid fear of novel situations. They need to have some space for exercise.

Dietary needs: Amazons should be fed a formulated (pelleted or extruded diet) as a basis for good nutrition. Kaytee Exact is an excellent staple diet for amazons. Weight should be monitored and if they become too heavy they should be fed a restricted diet to prevent obesity. The diet should be supplemented with fresh fruits and vegetables daily to add variety and psychological enrichment. Feed approximately ¼ cup of Kaytee Exact and 1/4 cup of fresh fruits and vegetables daily. Monitor food intake. Overfeeding leads to pickiness, selective feeding and wasteful throwing of food. Because of their tendency to obesity, Mexican Red-headed Amazons should be fed no sunflower or safflower seeds or seeds should only be given as treats. Vitamin supplements are not needed for birds that are eating a formulated diet. Birds which are fed only seeds, will need vitamin and mineral supplementation to prevent deficiency diseases. Preferably vitamins should be added to soft food rather than putting in the water as this dilutes the vitamins, water soluble vitamins break down rapidly and water with sweetened and vitamins is a good growth medium for bacteria. Vitamin added to the outside of seeds is usually lost when the bird shells the seeds.

Grooming: Routine bathing or showering is vital to maintaining good plumage and skin condition. Birds can be misted and allowed to dry in a warm room or in the sun, or gently dried with a blow drier. Care should be taken not to clip the wing feathers excessively as amazons often fall and injure themselves. Clip only the primary flight feathers and only enough so the bird will glide to the floor. Mexican Red-headed Amazons are heavy bodied and care must be taken not to cut too many feathers. Excessive wing clipping can result in injuries from falling.

Identification: All companion and breeding birds should be individually identified to assist in recovery if lost and assist in maintenance of medical and genealogical records. Many breeders apply closed legs bands when chicks are young. While they present a slight risk of entrapment closed bands are preferable to no identification, especially for breeding birds. Microchips, which can be implanted into the muscle or under the skin, are a reliable means of identification but require electronic readers to verify identification. Tattoos may be used but often fade or become illegible with time. Footprints may have some application in identification.

Sexing: Mexican Red-headed amazons are monomorphic (sexes are not visually distinct). Surgical sexing or DNA sexing must be used to confirm sex of breeders.

Housing: Mexican Red-headed amazons are very active and should be provided the largest cage that space and budget allows. They should also be supplied with a retreat to guard against insecurity and fear responses. Ideally the cage should provide room for flight. Durable cage construction is not as critical as it is for macaws and cockatoos. Locks or escape proof latches may be necessary on cages. Ideally the bird will have an outdoor cage as well to allow playtime in the fresh-air and sunlight.

Breeding: Mexican Red-headed amazons are difficult to breed in captivity. They tend to be nervous and need privacy. In North America Mexican Redheaded amazons breed predominantly in the spring and have a limited breeding season typically from February or March to June or July. Clutch size is typically 3 to 4 eggs. One inch by one inch by 14 gauge welded wire, or 1” X ½ “ welded wire is a good choice for cage construction. A suggested size is 4 feet wide by 4 feet tall by 8 feet long suspended 4 feet above the ground or floor.

Nest Box: Grandfather style wooden boxes can be used. Size should be approximately 10” x 10” x 18”. Incubation period is approximately 24-26 days. Chicks will usually fledge at approximately 10 to 12 weeks of age. Mexican Red-headed amazons are relatively easy to hand-rear. Most hand rearing formulas can be used successfully. Kaytee Exact regular or macaw hand rearing formulas are good choices.

Aggression: Male Mexican Red-headed amazons are seldom aggressive toward their mates. Clipping the wings of the male prior to the breeding season may be necessary in aggressive individuals to help the female to escape in case the male becomes aggressive. Mexican Red-headed can be noisy when in breeding condition. When breeding amazons, noise and proximity to neighbors must be considered.

Common diseases and disorders:
• Obesity
• Feather-picking
• Psittacosis
• Poor eating habits
• Bacterial and fungal infections
• Mate aggression
• Toxicity, ingestion of metals
• Toe necrosis

Conservation Status: Mexican Red-headed Amazons are listed on Appendix I of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). Wild populations estimated to be as low as 3000-6000 birds and are declining due to habitat destruction and capture for export and use for pets locally in other areas. Lower elevations areas within of their range are vulnerable being converted to agriculture. In the past large numbers were traded and used locally for pets. Mexican Red-headed amazons were once common in the United States but they are difficult to breed and not readily available.

(Aratinga Solstitialis)

Description: Sun Conures are one of avicultures most stunning small parrots. Their back and mantle are a bright yellow with red-orange suffusion on the face, breast and underbelly. The primary wing feathers are a dark blue while the wing coverts are green with yellow tipping. Green plumage covers the tail and is tipped with blue. The beak is black, eyes brown and legs dark grey. Both sexes are identical in apperance and the only 100% sure way to sex them is by DNA testing.

Size: These birds average about 12 inches (30cm) including their tail length.

Origin: Sun Conures originated from Northern Brazil spreading out through Venezuela and the Guianas.

Diet: A good Sun Conure diet must include large mixed millets, canary grass seeds, hemp seed, safflower, sunflower, peanut, fruits and veggies. Many people use a Cockatiel seed mix with added sunflowers and peanuts. Be careful not to add too much sunflower as Conures can easily become "sunflower junkies". Sunflower seeds are very high in fat content and can make your Conure become overwieght if proper excersise is not maintained. Apples and Cucumbers seem to be relished by our Conures. Lettuce, spinach, chickweed, spray millet, eggfood, brocolli tops, carrot tops, orange slices and non-poisionous berries can also be offered on a regular basis. Fresh water, cuttlebone and grit should also be supplied at all times.

General Care: These birds will demand attention if they are hand tame pets. If they do not get attention they will revert back to a wild state or get negative attention with misbeahavior (screeching etc.) like many ignored pet birds. They are curious and amusing birds so be careful to keep them out of harm's way. Conures tend to trim their own nails but they do require daily water changes.

Compatibility: Sun Conures do best as a single pet bird or caged in pairs. Conures can be very affectionate towards there owners but they require a lot of attention and become very noisy if neglected.

Housing: Pet Conures can be kept in store bought medium parrot cages if they are allowed to be outside of the cage for the majority of the day. If they are not allowed to be outside the cage (as with untamed or breeder birds) they will require more space so they can fly and get needed exercise. If you are planing on breeding Conures they will breed in individual pair cages. I would suggest a minimum breeding cage space of 48 inches long x 24 inches high x 24 inches wide with a 1/2-3/4 inch bar spacing if you use wire cages. Do not house them in round cages. If they are used to 75-80 F degrees and you suddenly place them outside in 40 F temperatures it is likely they will become ill. However, if the temp drops naturally over a period of time they normally adjust just fine. Although, I would suggest keeping the aviary tmp at least 45 degrees during winter.

Song: The Sun Conure has no song but they do make difference sounds, screeches, and noises. Differences can be noted in the mate call, warning or alarm call, and flock call. One Conure normally dose not make too much noise unless it wants attention but a colony or flock of Conures can make a tremedious amount of noise. Sun Conures have been known to talk on occasion but not as often as the other Conure species such as the Blue Crowns.

Breeding: Most Conures show intrest in breeding at about 2 years of age. Provided you supply an adequate enviroment and nest box a bonded pair in breeding condition should mate and produce at least 2 clutches of 3-4 eggs a year.The nestbox size I suggest is 12 x12 x12 or 15x12x12 made out of strong plywood. They incubate the eggs for about 25 days and will make shrill noises if they are distrubed durring this time. After hatching the young conures will begin to feather out at about 4 weeks old and will not be fully weaned until they are 6-8 weeks old. Baby Conures can be pulled out of the nest at 3 weeks old in order to hand feed them. I see no reason why they need to be pulled before 3 weeks unless the parents are not careing for them correctly. Do not interfer with the pairs while they are nesting, incubbating or taking care of young babies.

(Pyrrhura molinae)

Description: Green Cheeked Conures are primarily green, with a grey breast, dark head, maroon tail and blue flight feathers.

Size: These birds average about 10 - 11 inches (25 -27 cm)including their tail length.

Origin: Green Cheeked Conures come from South America.

Diet: A good Green Cheeked Conure diet must include large mixed millets, canary grass seeds, hemp seed, safflower, sunflower, peanut, fruits and veggies. Many people use a Cockatiel seed mix with added sunflowers and peanuts. Be careful not to add too much sunflower as Conures can easily become "sunflower junkies". Sunflower seeds are very high in fat content and can make your Conure become overwieght if proper excersise is not maintained. Apples and Cucumbers seem to be relished by our Conures. Lettuce, spinach, chickweed, spray millet, eggfood, brocolli tops, carrot tops, orange slices and non-poisionous berries can also be offered on a regular basis. Fresh water, cuttlebone and grit should also be supplied at all times.

General Care: These birds will demand attention if they are hand tame pets. If they do not get attention they will revert back to a wild state or get negative attention with misbeahavior (screeching etc.) like many ignored pet birds. They are curious and amusing birds so be careful to keep them out of harm's way. Conures tend to trim their own nails but they do require daily water changes.

Compatibility: Conures do best as a single pet bird or caged in pairs. Conures can be very affectionate towards there owners but they require a lot of attention and become very noisy if neglected.

Housing: Pet Conures can be kept in store bought medium parrot cages if they are allowed to be outside of the cage for the majority of the day. If they are not allowed to be outside the cage (as with untamed or breeder birds) they will require more space so they can fly and get needed exercise. If you are planing on breeding Conures they will breed in individual pair cages. I would suggest a minimum breeding cage space of 48 inches long x 24 inches high x 24 inches wide with a 1/2-3/4 inch bar spacing if you use wire cages. Do not house them in round cages. If they are used to 75-80 F degrees and you suddenly place them outside in 40 F temperatures it is likely they will become ill. However, if the temp drops naturally over a period of time they normally adjust just fine. Although, I would suggest keeping the aviary tmp at least 45 degrees during winter.

Types:Madagascar Lovebird (Agapornis cana), Red-Faced Lovebird (Agapornis pullaria), Abyssinian Lovebird (Agapornis taranta), Swindern’s Lovebird (Agapornis swinderniana), Peach-faced Lovebird (Agapornis roseicollis), Nyasa Lovebird (Agapornis lilianae), Black-checked Lovebird (Agapornis nigrigenis), Fischer’s Lovebird (Agapornis fischeri), Masked Lovebird (Agapornis personata)

Description: In the wild, Lovebirds are typically green with a variety of colors on their upper body, depending on the species. Other species, like the Black-masked, Fischer's, Black-cheeked, and the yellow-collared lovebirds, have a white ring around the eye. Many color mutations have been developed in captivity.

Size: 5 - 7.5 inches (13 - 19 cm)

Origin: Lovebirds come from Africa and Madagascar

Diet: Their natural diet includes various fruits, vegetables, plant material, grasses and seed.

General Care: Lovebirds are extremely active birds that need quite a bit of exercise in order to stay in shape. Lovebird need a bird-safe place to play outside of its cage for several hours per day. This will allow the bird to exercise all of the muscle groups that it needs to stay healthy. This will also provide important mental stimulation that these very intelligent animals need.

Compatibility: Loving and affectionate with their chosen mate (whether it's another bird or a human). They aggressive they can get with those they deem to be intruders or competitors for their mate's affection. Their dominant and territorial nature can be a big issue with other pets such as birds, cats, dogs and they have been known to ferociously attack. Interactions with other pets should be supervised.

Housing: The minimum size cage for one lovebird should be 18" long by 18" wide by 18" tall. For a pair of lovebirds, a cage 24" long by 18" wide by 24" tall but larger is always better. A good cage should have horizontal bars on at least two sides. Hookbills love to climb and horizontal bars help to make climbing easier. The bar spacing should be no more than 3/4" apart to prevent injury.

Types: Brown-headed Parrot (Poicephalus cryptoxanthus cryptoxanthus), Tansanian Brown-headed Parrots (Poicephalus cryptoxanthus tanganyikae), Zanzibar Brown-headed Parrots (Poicephalus cryptoxanthus zanzibaricus)

Description: Brown-headed parrots generally have a sweet temperament. They are relatively small parrots and also tend to be a quieter than other parrot species. This makes them a good choice for apartment dwellers.

Size: 8.5 - 9 inches (~22 cm) in length and has a wing length of about 5.5 - 6.5 ins (145 - 165 mm)

Origin: Southeastern Africa

Diet: A high quality seed / nut mix as well as fresh fruits, veggies, and greens. Fresh water should be available at all times for both drinking and bathing.

General Care: Brown-headed parrots are heavier than other parrots; therefore, care needs to be taken if you decide to trim the bird's wing feathers. If the wing feathers are trimmed too much the bird can fall to the ground potentially injuring or breaking its chest bone. Trim only enough to allow the bird to glide to the floor.

Compatibility: Young Brown-heads should be socialized to many people and exposed to new experiences to avoid fear of new situations. Adult parrots tend to be less adaptable to unfamiliar environments.

Housing: Brown-head parrots are active and require as large a cage as possible. At a minimum the cage should be of the following dimensions: 4 ft x 4 ft x 4 ft or 3 ft x 3 ft x 6 ft, with 5/8" or 3/4" bar spacing.

(Myiopsitta monachus)

Common Names: Quaker Parakeet, Quaker Parrot or Monk Parakeet

Description: Quakers have a long tapered tail and are green in color with gray starting at the top of their head, down their faces, lighter gray cheeks and gray scalloped markings on the chest and underbelly.

Size: 11 inches in length

Origin: South America

Diet: Pelleted diet as well as fresh fruits, veggies, and greens. Fresh water should be available at all times for both drinking and bathing. Seeds and nuts are generally too high in fat and are should be reserved as treats and training rewards.

General Care: Quaker dearly love their toys and should have lots of toys rotated on a regular basis to keep them happy. They are not as destructive as many other parrots preferring to really play with everything they own. Young Quakers will often roll around in play with small balls and hand held toys. Most Quakers love bathing in their water dishes with some learning to like spray baths. Socialization is the key to keeping your Quaker nice to everyone as they can be sweet, loving birds, but they can also be little holy terrors if not properly trained.

Compatibility: Quakers do best in homes where they are made to be part of the family and are included in daily activities. They thrive on socialization and are happy to spend the majority of their time with their owner. They are unusual in that they come equipped with attitude, determination, intelligence, and a desire to make and keep a home.

Housing: At a minimum the cage should be 18 x 18 x 18 with bars about 5/8” apart

Types: Congo African Grey Parrot (Psittacus erithacus erithacus), Timneh African Grey Parrot (Psittacus erithacus timneh)

Description: African Grey Parrots are loving, playful, have the intelligence level of up to a five-year old with the temperament of a two-year old. They bring joy and laughter into the lives of all who have the pleasure of knowing one. They are known as the "Einstein's" of the parrot world because of their incredible talking ability.

Size: Congo - 12 – 14 inches, Timneh - 10 inches

Origin: Africa

Diet: Pelleted diet as well as fresh fruits, veggies, and greens. Fresh water should be available at all times for both drinking and bathing.

General Care: Be sure to bath your African Grey daily if possible. African Greys are highly sensitive. This sensitivity is part of the grey’s charm, but can also lead to common behavioral problems. Even a small change in daily routine or in the bird’s surroundings can lead to plucking and crankiness.

Compatibility: African Greys are a one person bird for the most part. They can be socialized to other members of the family over time.

Housing: The cage should be at least 2 feet deep by 3 feet wide by 4 feet high (61 x 91 x 122 cm) and have a playpen top with a tray.